HOW TO BUILD A SHUTTER CABINET FOR A SMALL SPACE

HOW TO BUILD A SHUTTER CABINET FOR A SMALL SPACE

When I found this shutter it was painted white and a little bit of wood was showing through.  I wanted it to look more distressed, so I left it outside for three or four months.  After being rained on several times, I decided I finally liked it, just fine!  So, I distressed it a little bit more and added white and gray paint.  Then, I added the subtle stencil on top, middle and bottom in a soft metallic silver.  

Actually, I was just curious how it would hold up after being rained on.  

Maybe you shouldn't do that :)

It's easy enough to get a distressed look with paint.

From the rain hitting it, there is a bit of decayed wood on the very top,

 but I really like the way it looks with the distressing.

As I was sealing the shutter, I put lots and lots of sealer on the decayed wood.  I didn't want it to crumble.  The rest of the shutter is not rotted.  Just the top.

My home is small and I'm always trying to figure out ways to add more storage.  This shutter cabinet is perfect just outside of my bathroom.  Those two legs that I added to the bottom hold it up, but I also added two L hooks/angle hooks on the top.  Otherwise, it would topple over.

After working on the shutter, I built a frame the size of the shutter out of 1 x 6 boards and cut and installed 7 shelves. 8 including the bottom of the frame.  I used the wall as the back.  That way, it kept the cabinet narrow, since I didn't have a lot of room in the hallway.  At Lowes, I found some perfect legs to attach to the bottom.  I painted the frame and legs a steel blue and then painted and rubbed off metallic silver.  The color looks so nice with the distressed and faded white and gray shutter.  It needed a knob, so I found a wooden one and painted it to match the shutter.  At the very end, I sealed everything with a "dull" clear coat.

     Finally, I added the hinges and attached the door .
This cabinet is sooo easy to make and is the perfect size for a narrow space.

I really love how it turned out.  And, I did it myself!!

MY FAVORITE WIRE CUTTERS ~ SO EASY TO USE!

MY FAVORITE WIRE CUTTERS ~ SO EASY TO USE

I went shopping for new wire cutters.

The sales guy showed me these KOBALT cutters.  He said he took these home to his wife and she said they were really easy to use.

So, I purchased them for around 12.00.

They are WONDERFUL!!

I used to struggle, cutting thicker wire and tin or metal things with my really old cutters.  It always hurt my hand.  Using these wire cutters is almost like using scissors.  If you're struggling with your's, check these out.  I bet you can find them at any hardware store.  There is a Lowe's very close to my home, so that's usually my go-to store.

~

PAINTING PATTERNS HARLEQUIN~STRIPES~CHECKS

PAINTING HARLEQUIN PATTERN
Painting a harlequin pattern on your wall (or anywhere) will look so smart.  You can draw and paint your pattern any size or any color you want.  Just measure, measure, measure.

There is LOTS of drawing.

I always use a pencil so I can erase any lines I'm not going to use.

HARLEQUIN TUTORIAL

If you want to paint a harlequin pattern on your wall, you first decide your colors.  You can paint a base coat color on  your wall or work with the existing color.  After that dries really well you can start drawing.  You need a pencil, an eraser and a level.  (I love my level!)  Decide how large you want the diamond shape to be.  This client wanted a smaller pattern.  I like the look of a larger pattern than this one.  On an 8' wall maybe stack four harlequins.  If you had no baseboard, each one would be about 24".  But, you have a baseboard and, possibly, a crown molding.  You have to figure and subtract a few inches so they'll fit in your space.  Next you decide how wide you want each pattern to be.  Now you start figuring and drawing.  This is why I use a pencil.  I draw a grid on the wall and erase any lines I don't paint over.  Choose a contrasting color.  Pay close attention to your painting, making sure you skip every other diamond.  I always put a piece of tape on the diamond I WON'T be painting.  You can cut out different size paper patterns and tape them on the wall.  That will give you a better idea about the size you might want.

As I painted each diamond, I wiped the paint with a rag.
(LINK TO)
DRAWING & PAINTING HARLEQUIN PATTERN & STRIPES

TUTORIAL FOR WET BAR HARLEQUIN

The walls in this wet bar were painted white.

I drew my harlequin pattern with a pencil.  When you paint it should cover the pencil marks.

Because it's easy to get confused I always count out and put a piece of tape on every other diamond.  That way I won't start painting the wrong one and, believe me, I have done that. 

As I painted the gold, while it was still wet, I used a rag to rub a lot off.  Especially in the middle.  Then, in the white diamonds I very lightly brushed the metallic gold around the edges so it would look shadowy.  Kind of hard to see in this picture.

At each point where the diamond points met I painted the red circle with my finger.

If you don't want to use your finger you could cut a sponge into a circle and use that instead.

Black and white.  Red fleur d'lis.
Glazed with tea stain antiquing glaze.

Were beige walls.  Used tea stain for glazing.
Make antiquing glaze with raw umber & black added to clear glaze.
Measure slowly.  Stir well.

~

PAINTING STRIPES

STRIPES TUTORIAL

First, I painted the base coat.  The client told me about how wide they wanted the stripes.  I measured around the room and decided how wide they could be.  But, it's important to count the stripes and make sure that when you get to the end, you don't have two of the same color.  Even though I know how to count, I still use my yard stick and go around the room, saying to myself: "pink/orange, pink/orange".  A long time ago when I was painting stripes I had everything measured just perfectly and at the end, I had two of the same color!!!!!  Not sure how that happened, but, that's why I count around the room just making sure there are NO mistakes!  As you're painting, if you see you're going to have a few inches left over or a few inches short, it's ok to start adding or taking away 1/4" or 1/2" to each stripe.  As you're wrapping around a corner, you can cheat a little bit, too.  

It will all come out looking really nice.  

Have fun!! 

(LINK TO)

HAND PAINTING STRIPES & A PLAYHOUSE

(LINK TO)

PAINTING STRIPES & FLOWERS ON A NURSERY DRESSER

 

(LINK TO)

 PAINTING STRI[ES ON AN ANTIQUE DRESSER

(LINK TO)

HAND PAINTING TREE & STRIPES ARTWORK ON A PINE ARMOIRE

 DISTRESSED AMERICAN FLAG I PAINTED

 

ONE STRIPE IS COOL

(LINK TO)

PAINTING ONE STRIPE ON SMALL CABINET

Parents to-be asked me to paint these stripes in their nursery.

The dad measured and marked where he wanted me to paint the stripes.

Then!  I had to make them match at the fourth corner.

Plan ahead to end your stripes behind the door.

 

(LINK TO)

PAINTING APPLE GREEN & CHOCOLATE STRIPES IN AN ENTRY HALL

(LINK TO)

PAINTING CLOUDS & STRIPES IN A KID'S BEDROOM

(LINK TO)

PAINTING ZEBRA STRIPES ON A CEILING & TUTORIAL 

~

PAINT A CHECKERED PATTERN

(LINK TO)

PAINTING BLACK & WHITE CHECKERED CORBELS FOR PATTI

I painted and distressed this chest using oil based paint.  

As I painted, I wiped some of the paint off with a rag.

I painted the checkered top with white water based paint.  I made my own stencil and stenciled and painted the black checks.  After stenciling, I did use a tiny brush to define the edges and corners.  It was still a bit uneven, but that is the way I wanted it to be.  I wanted it to look hand painted.  On the feet I didn't use a stencil.  I chose a small flat brush the size I wanted the checks to be and painted from sight.  No perfection here!

PAINTING A FARMHOUSE~BARNWOOD FAUX FINISH ON A TABLE

PAINTING A FARMHOUSE-BARNWOOD FAUX FINISH ON A TABLE

Patti has been my client for many years.

  I'm so glad she calls me when she's working on a new project.  I really love her style and really enjoy working with her.  Recently, she called and  wanted me to paint a faux farmhouse~barnwood finish on a dining table for her daughter's new home. 

This is a picture of the table "after" I painted it.

I always use brown and gray colors to get this look.

It's not hard to paint a "farmhouse" or "barnwood" faux finish.

 The table and legs were a white washed light oak finish.  For the base of the table I used a white oil based satin paint.  I painted small sections at a time and immediately rubbed the paint off of the areas where I wanted to expose the old finish.  I used soft rags for wiping the paint.  I didn't seal the oil paint.  I left the shiny satin finish, hoping to contrast with the duller farmhouse~ barnwood table top.

To start, I painted a wood colored paint as my base coat.  Next, I brushed on a medium gray color.  With a rag, I gently rubbed off the gray in linear strokes.  Always brush the direction of the wood grain.  In this picture it is painted and you can't see the wood grain, but you can imagine how the wood grain would go.  The brush strokes should be almost dry brushed because you want to see the base coat of tan through the gray.  Try to make long strokes, but it's ok to have shorter strokes, too.  That's the way natural wood looks.  On top of the gray, I painted a dark brown.  I painted the brown in long and short strokes.  As I was brushing it out, I left some of the strokes a little heavier with paint and some a little more brushed out.  I did this so the brush strokes would simulate wood grain.  

This is the "before" white washed finish on the table.

Patti actually fed her children on this table when they were small. 

So sweet that her daughter has it now.
She will be feeding her children at this same table, too.

Many times clients have asked me to paint furniture they've kept in storage for years.  Painting and making it new again is perfect for the kids that slept on it, played on it, shared a meal with family, etc.  Many times older furniture has really good lines and painting makes it beautiful and new again.

HAND PAINTED CHAIR SEAT COVERS & TUTORIAL PAINTING ON CANVAS CLOTH

HAND PAINTED CHAIR SEAT COVERS & TUTORIAL

My client had four very white chairs at her table in her breakfast room.  She brought the chairs to me and asked me to paint them a darker color.  She only wanted me to paint two of them and gave the other two to me.  I used a gel stain for the darker finish.

I painted the arms, part of the back and front legs a faux dark stained brown wood.  I painted the back and legs an off white, distressed it a bit, painted some ivy on it and aged it with an antiquing glaze.  Then, I painted this pot of pink flowers and ivy on canvas cloth and covered the chair seat with it.  I put it for sale in a neat shop that sold lots of my things.  After a while the shop owner told me that the pink really wasn't working and asked me if I could put some blue on it.

I certainly could do that!!

So, I took my paint and supplies, sat on the floor of the shop and changed the pink to blue.  Right after that, someone bought it.  I think they were going to use it for a desk chair.  Oh, and that is a table that I painted and distressed.  I love that finish!

 I had fun with the other chair.  I painted it green with grape vines and painted the canvas chair seat with grapes and wine glasses.

 

These pictures are for a client who wanted me to paint duck cloth/canvas for her chair back slip covers.  She wanted them to be like ancient roman frescoes.  After I painted the ladies on the canvas cloth, she had them attached/sewn to a soft white linen fabric with a special trim.  The chair seats were made from the soft white linen.  The headbands, parts of the flowers and jewelry are painted with metallic gold leaf.  They do reflect the light.  The chairs turned out sooo beautifully and I am so proud of them.  But, I forgot to take pictures.  Maybe someday I will be able to go back and take pictures.  

This is another ancient fresco that I painted for a chair back.

 

These are patterns I drew and cut out for the chair covers.  For this project, it was easier for me to have these patterns.  I traced them onto the fabric and painted them.  By making the patterns, I was able to draw exactly the right size and place them exactly the way I wanted them on the fabric.   And, it really did make the job a lot easier.

~

TUTORIAL

If you want to change your chair seat covers, it's very simple to do.  At your fabric store you will find canvas cloth.  You need to choose the strength you think would be good for a chair seat.  It's usually 100% cotton, so if you wash it, it will be very, very wrinkled.  If that's the look you want, wash it and hang it up to dry.  Otherwise, don't wash it and paint right on it like you were painting on any canvas.  If you don't want to paint a picture you can use a stencil or paint stripes or plaid, anything you can think of.  Or, sponge paint your colors.

My chairs, I turned upside down and unscrewed the chair seats.  You can remove the existing seat covers or just fold your canvas cloth right over (without removing the existing seat cover) and staple.  BUT, BEFORE I STAPLED THEM, I cut the canvas cloth to the size I needed, leaving lots of extra to fold under.  I folded the cloth around the chair seat, placed it back on the chair and put blue tape on the edge of the area to be painted so I would know my boundaries.  Next, I took the cloth off  the chair, placed it on a table with cardboard under it so the paint wouldn't get on my table.  At this point, you can stencil or paint and have fun with your colors and design.  Craft paint is inexpensive and comes in sooo many colors and it's ok to use craft paint, if that's easier for you.  I always use Textile Medium to thin the paint a little and make sure it penetrates the fabric.  It is fabric, so be sure it is totally dry before you start trying to put it on the chair seat.  Before you staple, make sure your design is exactly where you want it to be.  Then pull it very, very tightly around your chair seat and staple very, very well on the back side.  LOTS of staples!

It's sooo easy to do.  Have fun!!

ASK ME

Hi there!

This is me working hard as usual!!

I've been painting for a long time and I LOVE working with paint.  I do a lot of techniques and moves that I don't even remember why I started doing them.  I always have paint on me, somewhere.  And, I wear coveralls most of the time because I'm always working in my studio, a client's home or touching paint in one way or another.

I would love to help you with your painting projects.

If you have any questions about painting, paint colors,
decorating with color, please feel free to 

"ask me".

A big THANK YOU!! for visiting my blog.

~

SOMETIMES I DON'T SEE YOUR QUESTIONS AND COMMENTS.  IF YOU WOULD LIKE A RESPONSE, PLEASE FEEL FREE TO MESSAGE ME, AGAIN.
(OR, EMAIL AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS POST)
~

I'm texturing Saundra's kitchen walls so the painters can get everything painted before I start painting a special finish on her cabinets.  If other contractors work on a job I'm usually the last person to come in.  I'm sure the contractors appreciate that they don't have to be so careful around the newly painted cabinets.  The texture I'm doing is a light santa fe look with a 5" broad knife and sheetrock mud.  Saundra loves this textured look.

Under "kitchens, cabinets, etc." you can see the pistacio distressed cabinets I painted in this kitchen.  Also, you can see the newly built vent-a-hood that I painted to look like "antique copper".  The "antique copper" looked sooo good with the pistacio color.

Here is that link:

Saundra'sPistachioCabs&Ant.CopperVent-A-Hood

~

When Patti was building her BEAUTIFUL! new home I spent more than 3 months working there.  But, for about a year before that she was bringing me all sorts of things to paint for her new home.  She brought me tiles, furniture to be installed in baths, light fixtures, lots of different things, even her weathervane to go on top of her home.  

In this photo I was painting artwork in one of her four groin ceilings in her entry hall.  In each one I painted different patterns but used the same colors and it looked so nice with her stone and fabulous light fixtures.  It was lots of hard work, but I'm very proud of how everything looks now.  Patti has such great taste and it really shows in this wonderful home.

Thank you, Patti! 

Here is a link to that project:

PAINTING ARTWORK ON FOUR GROIN CEILINGS & TUTORIAL

~

EMAIL ME AT:  lynberg@prodigy.net

or

LEAVE A QUESTION OR COMMENT BELOW

DRAWING & PAINTING FAUX BRICKS (TROMPE L'OEIL) & TUTORIAL

DRAWING & PAINTING FAUX BRICKS (TROMPE L'OEIL) & TUTORIAL

The builder of this home had one area in the  kitchen that was very plain and needed "something".  Finally he had the idea of painting faux bricks to match the other two real brick walls.  He called me and asked me to paint faux bricks in one area in this kitchen.

So, I did paint faux/trompe l'oeil bricks for him.
Here are three walls with bricks.
Can you tell which two walls are real bricks and which one I painted.

Can you tell which one?

Alright, I'm sure you guessed it.  The butler's pantry was very plain and the builder wanted me to paint the faux bricks to blend with the other two walls.  When you're standing in certain areas of the big living room, you can see all three brick walls at the same time.  So, it was important to make them look the same.

Faux Bricks that I painted.

~

TUTORIAL

First, I used dry spackling and with a broad knife and my finger I lightly textured the area.  Then, I picked out colors to match the existing brick and mortar colors.  I painted over the whole area the grayish grout color. When that dried, I used my brick stencil to get the structure going.  Next, I used a regular brush to stencil the orange brick base coat.  Then, a brush to paint and a rag to rub out an off white, raw umber and black.  It took a while to work on each brick and make them different from each other.  Last, I went back with a brush and painted wider grout lines and wiped it with a rag and smudged out areas on each brick to match the existing real brick walls.

At the very bottom and at the very top I had to make my own bricks because the stencil wouldn't fit in those spots.  But, the bricks are so uneven it's very simple to do.  And, in the corners I lightly brushed some raw umber just so it shadowed a little bit.  Making it look a little more three dimensional.

I think anyone could do this.  

You could paint the wall behind your fireplace, under your kitchen cabinets. a mud room or any place you wish you had bricks.  And, you can use any color.

Have fun!!

PAINTING ON DUCK CLOTH FABRIC FOR CHAIR CUSHIONS

PAINTING ON DUCK CLOTH FABRIC FOR CHAIR CUSHIONS

I love showing you what clients are asking me to do in their homes to,
 hopefully, inspire and encourage you in the decorating of your homes.

Some of my clients are really good at decorating their homes.

Others have designers to help them with their decorating.

A client ordered some chairs for her dining room and the chair cushions were going to be white.  She wanted more color and showed me a pattern sample of the colors she wanted on those chair cushions.   It took me a while to paint the above sample.

I traced this design onto duck cloth.  Got started painting the cloth. 

Then the decorator said it was enough to show her client for approval.

 My main concern is, the chairs haven't come in yet and I don't know what kind of fabric is on those chair cushions.  So, it might be a challenge painting on that fabric.
 We'll see!
~
USE FABRIC MEDIUM
When I paint on fabric, I always use fabric medium.  You can find it wherever craft paints are sold.  I don't usually use "fabric paint".  I use "craft" paints:  Americana, Folkart, Ceramcoat, Martha Stewart, Apple Barrel and others.  If you add fabric medium it helps thin the paint enough to soak into your fabric.  Acrylic craft paints are durable and dry hard enough to wipe (not scrub) or clean your project if it needs it.

DESIGN & BUILD YOUR OWN FIREPLACE MANTEL ~ EMBELLISH YOUR EXISTING MANTEL

DESIGN & BUILD YOUR OWN FIREPLACE MANTEL ~ EMBELLISH YOUR EXISTING MANTEL

Recently, I came across this picture of mantel assembly pieces.

I'm sharing it with you to show how easy it would be to build your own mantel.  Or, add colums and decorative pieces to your existing mantel. 

If you think you can't do it, a carpenter will know what to do.

You design and pick out the pieces and ask the carpenter to help you. 

Sometimes I will see a carpenter working on an existing mantel.  At first it doesn't look so good with all of the unfinished pieces being added.  But, once everything gets painted or stained the same color it looks great.  You can Google fireplace mantels to get ideas for your own creation.   I saw several that were $3,000 , $4,000. and even more expensive to purchase.  Pinterest is another place to find good ideas.  You can find trim pieces at home improvement stores and online.   Try to picture them after everything has been painted.

This is a mantel I painted. 
 It doesn't have a lot of trim pieces, but beautiful.

Another one I painted.  I love all of the round and curved trim pieces.

They're mostly individual pieces nailed, glued or screwed together.

Another huge mantel that I painted.
 It was so tall I had to reach up to work on it.

These mantels were all assembled with lots of parts and pieces.
 Look at the first picture above with assembly pieces.

You can do it, too!
~
I did not paint this mantel.
I was working in a home, loved his fireplace and asked if I could take pictures.  It would be very easy to build.

Love the simplicity!